phinmag: a personal experimental media project

Part One of an old entry on my trip to Kunming, China in January 2005.

I was given a travel assignment to Kunming, China last year, from January 15 to 19, 2005. The five-day all-work trip organized by a local airline company in conjunction of their inaugural flight to the “City of Eternal Spring” in the Yunnan province.

Being in Kuching all my life and never been to a place as far as Singapore or Hat Yai, Thailand, Kunming was an interesting adventure. Though China was never the must-visit place in the world in my list, it was nevertheless a good experience - especially for a Malaysian Chinese like me who doesn’t speak a word of Mandarin!

OK, maybe I know a few terribly basic Mandarin phrases like “How are you?”, “Sorry”, “No, I don’t want it” and “Thank you”, but that was all. Pathetic as it was, I went around Kunming bargaining for things using awkward sign language and a very lost expression on my face!
So how’s Kunming, you wonder?

My official impression of Kunming: colorful bustling city with breathtaking natural surrounding and beautiful places like Stone Forest and Western Hill.

My unofficial impression of Kunming: great shopping and young hot Tibetan men. Ahem.

My journey to Kunming began when I woke up at 3am on Saturday morning to catch a 5.50am flight to KL. I was half asleep when I got to the airport and awkwardly waved my parents goodbye when I checked in. That morning was surreal. I was nervous but all that felt so dream-like. I was only alert when I sat myself in the plane and realized that the guy sitting next to me was the other Kuching reporter joining the trip. I immediately introduced myself and we got talking a bit. I was feeling relieved then.

We arrived in KLIA at 7.30am - the exact same time we were supposed to check-in for our Kunming trip. So it was a rush from the terminal to the baggage claim area and then go up to Level 5 to check-in again (as we were instructed by the airline company that we, the media, must check-in as a group). We didn’t exactly introduced ourselves to the other media members - one from Penang and the remaining seven from KL - properly then. We had to rush from the check-in counter to the international flight departure hall to cover a press conference.

There were cameras for two TV stations at the press conference. I was trying hard to avoid them because I didn’t want to be on TV (but Dad called me while I was in Kunming that I did appeared on the news. Drat.). The flight from KLIA to Kunming was pleasant. There’s good food and an entertaining movie. I watched the Jimmy Fallon-Queen Latifah flick, Taxi.

It was 3°C in Kunming when the plane landed. The media was told that we have to go out first before the VIPs make an entrance. So I grabbed my little backpack and head out to the door. It was only then that the chilly winds of Kunming hit me. I ran down the steps and jumped into the commuter bus that was going to bring us to the terminal on the other end of the airport. And it was also only then that reality hit me: Omigod, I’m in China!

I was somewhat in a daze between going through airport customs, another press conference and the bus ride from the airport to the hotel. Immediately after checking-in the hotel (we were given a room each), the media group head off for a quick sight-seeing in Kunming. We went to the ‘East and West Pagodas Walking Street’ which was an interesting place with shops built like old China and interesting bronze statues depicting people from the olden days. Pretty cool actually.

I was busy snapping pictures then and took one of a stall selling this gooey sweet lotus seed dessert/snack thing. I have a few shots of the stall owner serving his customers and not realizing that there was a blue-eyed tourist in a beanie looking straight at me. He’s about thirty-ish, sitting nearby at the other end of the stall. He smiled and I smiled back and quickly moved on.

Our group went for dinner at a well-known seafood restaurant organized by the Kunming Tourism Ministry. The restaurant was one huge building, in white and gold, that was probably inspired by Greek mythology. I forgot the name of the restaurant but the food was good. We ate a lot but I wasn’t sure if it was either we were hungry or cold. The restaurant was naturally cold. Meaning: the front door wasn’t close and we have the evening’s cold winds blowing in. We ate our dinner in our thick jackets.

Back in the bus, our tour guide Helen told us to get plenty of rest that night because the next day we will get a lot of exercise at the Stone Forest. Lots of steps to climb, we were told.

I couldn’t sleep that night despite feeling exhausted and had been awake since 3am. I spent time by the window (I have a good view) looking out at this foreign city. Part of me was relieved that I broke away from Kuching for awhile, from all the troubles and pressure. I can breathe for now. But then, part of me felt so alone.

I had a breakfast of fresh yogurt, muesli and peaches at the hotel that morning (and every morning there since nothing else in the buffet appealed to me). Pinky, a TV reporter, joined me for breakfast. She said she couldn’t wake up that morning, too tired. Same with me and several other journalists as well. Good thing we had a 7.30am wake-up call.

The journey to Stone Forest, an unique natural rock formation that spans 30,000 hectares of land, took about two hours. We stopped by two places halfway: a crystal factory centre (pretty expensive stuff there) and the Stone Forest office (for entry tickets) with some souvenir shops outside where I finally did some shopping. Didn’t buy much; just stuff for my colleagues. We rushed back to the bus and went on some long and winding road before we finally reached Yiliang county for lunch. We had a very good lunch with plenty of spicy food in a quaint restaurant run by a Muslim Chinese. Helen advised us to eat a lot because we need all the energy to explore Stone Forest.

And thank goodness for that because by the time we were done with Stone Forest later that afternoon, we were starving again! It was foggy that afternoon and Helen worried that if the weather turned for the worst, we have to cancel our trip. Lucky for us, the sun finally made its presence felt by 3pm and it was perfect weather when we reached Stone Forest.

Stone Forest is like a labyrinth. The rock formations were incredible but climbing up the steps can be slippery. It’s steep, narrow and winding. People can actually get lost in here. I don’t have much stamina and gotten tired easily. Good thing we stop quite a lot to snap photos so I didn’t have problem catching up. It was good exercise though and with the cool temperature, it was no sweat.

There were many souvenir stalls within the Stone Forest itself and the people who run then are very persistent with tourists, trying to get them to buy these supposedly authentic jade bracelets and all. One actually followed a reporter from a national paper, trying to persuade her to buy his jade bracelets. She said no repeatedly and walked away but he was persistent. Fortunately, the further and higher we went in the Stone Forest (we were heading to the viewing pavillion at the highest peak) he gave up following. Once up there, the view was breathtaking. It was a forest of rocks designed by Mother Nature. I was very impressed.

Going down was easy and pretty fast. We stroll around the Minor Stone Forest Garden, took more pictures and made a stop at the souvenir shop there. I bought a warm wrap (which I gave my godmother) and two embroidered hairbands of some minority ethnic group (which I gave to a friend and my brother’s girlfriend). Seriously, I didn’t know what I was buying and for who. My entire shopping spree in Kunming was not very organized. I buy whatever I thought was nice. I have no idea who I bought it for. All I know I bought stuff and will decide what to give to who when I get back to Kuching. I’ll sort it all out then.

The return trip from Stone Forest to Kunming city was surprising quick. We stopped by the Moslem Restaurant (which was nearby the seafood restaurant we went the night before and some urban development called, funnily enough, ‘Sooooouth Park’), a posh looking place for dinner. I must say - forgive the pun - we ate like pigs then. Everyone was bloody hungry after using all our energy at Stone Forest and the food was tremendously fabulous. The seafood was excellent and the spicy beef dish superb. This restaurant ranked the top spot for the best place to eat in Kunming in the entire trip! (The second would be the Muslim Chinese place in Yiliang for lunch that same day). The interiors was classy despite the bland exterior. Service wasn’t bad and thank goodness they have the heaters on in there. We can eat comfortably without wearing our thick jackets!

Our media group went out to explore the nearby market after we returned to the hotel and had our showers. The market reminds me of our Sunday Market in Satok; bustling with life, people selling shoes, clothes, lingerie, bags, fruits, food, accessories and even puppies! It was interesting, noisy though I was a bit peeved at the guy who almost spit on my shoe. It was eeky to find people spitting everywhere there. Everytime when I heard someone making that throaty sound of accumulating enough saliva in the mouth before the big spit, I panicked and start looking around so I can avoid being the unfortunate target.

Pinky and I clung to each other while browsing the stalls and avoiding the vehicles that drove through that narrow market road. The stalls are tiny there. I think it’s big enough to fit in a bed. Almost all shops sell the same thing. The same kind of shoes, or rather boots; the similar clothing (all thick clothing unsuitable for our Malaysian climate) from one shop to another. A good tip is: Just don’t buy from the first shop because the next one or the ones further down has better bargains.

Can’t remember if I bought anything that night. All I know I was tired by the end of the day. Tried to pen my travel article in bed but fell asleep after the first paragraph. I definitely couldn’t find the energy to write anything throughout my stay in Kunming. So much went on and everything, the experience and all, was new to me. My body was all exhausted every night. Brain might want to go on but body had to say no.

Part Two of my adventures in China will continue in the next issue.

I have apparently discovered new muscles in my arms, or rather, made ample use of my arms last Sunday. I went kayaking - my first kayaking experience! Thanks to one cool dude named Francis, who is bringing the joy of kayaking in Kuching, I got a chance to try this sport out.

I heard about Francis from my friend Gette but I’ve never met this guy until the morning of our trip on March 26, 2006. He’s one tall fella with a sense of humor. Coming along in our trip was Francis’ guide Azmi (who had represented Sarawak in the kayaking sport before), and my other friends, Peggy and Michael.

During a brief stopover at a coffee shop on the way to Bau, Francis informed Gette and I that if we need to pee while kayaking on the river, just go ahead and do the deed in the river. We laughed. I’m sure everyone has peed in the river, sea or swimming pool at some point in their lives before.

We drove up to our starting point in Krokong, Bau. I was calm despite the fact that I can’t swim and going kayaking may be a little like asking for trouble. But hey, I figured I’ve attempted crazier and much dangerous things before, kayaking wouldn’t be so extreme. According to Francis, we’ll be paddling down river from Krokong to Wind Cave; a three-hour trip on a rather shallow but winding river. It’s not a challenging route and perfect for beginners and non-swimmers like me. Besides, he said the scenery from the river there is beautiful.

That said, it is obvious kayaking in that river is not as extreme as my experience swinging on a ‘tibou’ last year. I don’t foresee any serious injury (done the whole broken bone thingy before anyway) except for the one of my camera (my precious!). Don’t think I’d drown either because I’ll be wearing a life jacket. Plus, Francis is serious about safety.

Francis gave me a bright yellow dry box for my camera. It looks like a lunch box, only missing a Sponge Bob sticker on it. Carrying that dry box and a bottle of mineral water made me look like I’m going lunching on a river.

After unloading the gear from the car to the river bank of our starting point, Francis gave a few safety pointers (like what to do if our kayak flipped over) and taught us paddling technique. Peggy and Michael took one kayak while Azmi and Gette shared another. I, potential drowner, need to stick with The Dude Who Really Knows What He’s Doing, Francis.

It was a little past 10am when we begin, and the weather is sunny. The river looks calm but cold. Starting out, I had a little trouble paddling properly but after awhile I think I got it OK except that I had the tendency of clashing my paddle with Francis’, who was sitting right behind me. Every time I hear our paddles clashed, I would stop paddling and grimaced (he can’t see from back there) my “oops”.

I keep paddling water into the kayak though. Still need to improve my paddling technique.

Although there were times when I paddled on my own while he takes a break. And gee… the man is heavy. For me to paddle on still waters with all our weight was quite a workout! I felt like I was in a regatta! Not that I want to complain much because it was not a big deal. I just had to paddle harder. Nevermind if I know for sure my arms are going to hurt like hell the next day.

Well, at least Francis steered most of the time and tackled the strong current parts and difficult obstacles, something which I’m too inexperienced – nor have the stamina - to handle on my own.

Paddling is just half the fun. Floating on the river alone was a wonderful experience on its own. Everything was so serene. The towering shady trees, the dragonflies flying just above the water surface, the cool breeze… everything there was beautiful. You have to be there to experience the beauty – especially the incredible rock formations along the river bank. It’s like a work of art.

The river was generally still most of the way, except for quite a number of obstacles like fallen and submerged trees and rocks to deal with. We were all doing fine, paddling well and overcoming one obstacle to another. But no matter what, the unexpected can happen.

Peggy and Michael were the first to flip over from their kayak while tackling one obstacle. But both were OK though Michael did get a minor bump on the head. Nothing serious. Just a wee bruise.

Francis was going like, “They have been ‘baptized’!” Then he went on to tell me that when you go on kayaking, you have to get yourself ‘baptized’ because that’s part of the experience.

“But I don’t want to. I have done that on my own many times before,” I told him.

We took our first break from our kayaks further down river on a pebbled surface by the river bank. I was happy to stretch my legs again, took some more photos and looked for odd-shaped stones in the river.

Francis and Peggy sat in the river, chatting and eating bananas. Francis praised the banana for its many virtues. After he was done eating, he flicked the peel into the river. “It’s biodegradable,” he pointed out.

“If I throw my banana skin in there,” said Peggy, “Will my kayak slip on it later and flip over?”

Everyone laughed at her theory. She threw her banana peel into the river.

Less than half-and-hour later, while we continued our journey down river, Francis and I became the second casualty. Yes, we flipped over.

It was very abrupt and caught us off-guard. Gette and Azmi crossed one small obstacle before us. Our turn came next with Peggy and Michael behind us. Francis maneuvered our kayak through the obstacle and we were floating calmly away from the bend of the river. Without warning, our kayak suddenly tipped over on the side, throwing us both overboard.

I was caught by surprised. I was hoping to stay relatively dry throughout the trip. But as always with me, something has to happen. I didn’t feel the whole flipping-over part. I only realized it when I was underwater, eyes wide open (despite wearing contact lenses) and holding my breath. I was surprisingly calm. Didn’t even panic because I know I’m wearing a life jacket and I’ll float back to the surface anyway.

I felt Francis jerking on my life jacket and pulling me up on the surface. First thought that came to my mind was “I can breathe!” and this was not because I don’t have to hold my breath anymore but rather falling overboard has cleared my sinus. My nose was blocked earlier and clearing that out was a good thing – not that I want my kayak to flip over again.

The first words I heard from Francis was “Are you OK? I got your hat.”

Yes, I was OK. The next thought that crossed my mind was “Where’s my camera?!”

“Can you find your paddle?” Francis called out. I was still floating on the water. “Is it between your legs?”

“I’m still holding it!” I remembered what Francis had said earlier, that if we fall into the water, don’t panic; the life jacket will keep us afloat; do not attempt to grab anything. Then, I also remembered that I shouldn’t let go of my paddle. I’m aware this rule probably applies to the time when I’m paddling on the kayak and not after falling of it. But apparently my hand had forgotten that it’s OK to let go.

I pulled my paddle out from the water and passed it to Francis. Then I saw the yellow ‘lunch box’ floating on the river. My camera is safe! Francis flipped the kayak back and grabbed the dry box and returned it onto the kayak.

“Swim over there!” he called out to me.

I was floating backwards to who-knows-where and the life jacket had hugged a bit closely to my face that I couldn’t turn my head to look around. “Where? But I can’t swim.”

I felt soft sand under my feet. I stood up. Heh. Nevermind.

A minute later, we were onboard our kayak and continued our paddling. “Are you OK?” he asked again.

“Yes, I’m fine,” I assured him. My nose sniffled. Darn. I need a tissue.

Francis figured there was something like a log underwater, unseen on the surface that had tipped our kayak over. I wondered if it was one of those banana peels he and Peggy threw in earlier.

No one tip over after that. The rest of the journey was smooth except for one part where our kayak was snagged on a long underwater. But we managed through.

I took a lot of photos throughout the trip – even though I still wish I could have taken more. I don’t have a waterproof camera so I was careful. We stopped our kayaks a few times just to shoot. But I hope to go back there again next time to photograph more.

Kayaking is a wonderful experience. I am definitely doing this again. Whether you swim or not, this is something you should try at least once.

“If you can swim, we can go kayak to Bako,” Francis said from behind.

Well, when I can swim, that is. For now, I don’t mind another trip down river.